AUTHENTIC RECIPE
Spaghetti ai Ricci di MareSpaghetti with Sea Urchin
Spaghetti with sea urchins caught around Taranto and Gallipoli in Puglia offers an exceptional taste of the sea. Avoiding excessive heat and mixing the cold sea urchin with pasta off the heat brings its fresh marine savor to the plate. The freshness of the ingredients determines everything.
AUTHENTICITY SCORE
Authenticity Score
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Ingredients (4 servings)
- Spaghetti320 g
- Fresh raw sea urchin roe, removed from the shellUse fresh sea urchins opened that day. Frozen or brine-packed roe loses flavor.200 g
- GarlicThinly sliced. Use to flavor the oil, then remove.2 cloves
- Extra virgin olive oil80 ml
- Dry white wineCook off the alcohol before using.50 ml
- Flat-leaf parsleyFinely chopped.1 small bunch
- Dried chili, optional1 chili
- Salt for the pasta water20 g for 2 L water, or 10 g per 1 L.20 g
Method
Divide the sea urchin for sauce and finishing
- 1 Divide 200 g raw sea urchin roe into 120 g for finishing and 80 g for the sauce.
- 2 Gently mash the 80 g sauce portion with a fork into a paste and leave at room temperature; do not use it straight from the refrigerator.
Cook the spaghetti and reserve cooking water
- 1 Put 2 L water in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat.
- 2 Once boiling, add 20 g salt and cook 320 g spaghetti for 2 minutes less than the package time.
- 3 Reserve 2 ladlefuls of cooking water, about 150 ml.
Infuse the oil with garlic
- 1 Put 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, about 80 ml, and 2 thinly sliced garlic cloves in a frying pan, with 1 chili if desired. Heat gently for 3–4 minutes to release their aroma.
- 2 Remove the garlic when lightly colored.
Cook off the wine’s alcohol
- 1 Add 50 ml white wine, raise the heat to medium and cook for 1–2 minutes until the alcohol evaporates; it is ready when the smell of alcohol around the pan has disappeared.
Emulsify and incorporate the sea urchin paste
- 1 Add 4 tbsp cooking water, about 60 ml, emulsify with the oil and turn off the heat.
- 2 Check that the pan has cooled before adding the sea urchin paste for the sauce, and blend it in using the residual heat.
Caution
Keep the heat off: overheating firms up the sea urchin and dissipates its flavor.
Toss the pasta with the sauce
- 1 Transfer the al dente spaghetti to the frying pan and toss quickly with tongs, within 30 seconds.
- 2 Adjust the consistency by adding cooking water 1 tbsp at a time.
Finish with raw sea urchin and serve
- 1 Plate the pasta and place the 120 g finishing portion of raw sea urchin on top as it is.
- 2 Scatter finely chopped flat-leaf parsley over the plate, add a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and serve immediately; the sea urchin aroma fades with time.
About this dish
Taranto in Puglia is known as the “city of two seas.” This meeting of the Ionian Sea and the small bay known as Mar Piccolo has long nurtured fishing and seaside cooking. Sea urchin pasta strongly reflects the character of this port city.
Locally, it has been enjoyed from spring into summer as a way to savor the sea’s bounty, appearing in fishing-town restaurants and at special meals at home. It belongs less to a culture of luxurious sauces than to one of eating what the shore provides on the day it is gathered.
Today it is known well beyond Taranto and Puglia as a dish of southern Italy’s coast. It also appears in city restaurants, but at heart it remains a port-town pasta that brings proximity to the sea and the season directly to the table.
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