TABELIAAUTHENTIC RECIPE
Rigatoni al Ragù NapoletanoRigatoni with Neapolitan Ragù
A Neapolitan Sunday tradition: braciole, beef rolls filled with pecorino, pine nuts and raisins, pork ribs and sausages simmer in 1500ml passata at a barely perceptible pippiare for at least 4–5 hours. The meat is served separately as the secondo, while the sauce coats rigatoni for the primo: two dishes from one pot.
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Ingredients (4 servings)
- Rigatoni320 g
- Thin beef slices for bracioleNo more than 5mm thick; pound thinner if needed.400 g
- Pork spare ribsBone-in pieces 4–5cm wide.400 g
- Neapolitan fresh sausageKeep in the casing; prick in 5–6 places with a toothpick against bursting.200 g
- Tomato passata1500 ml
- Large onionHalve lengthways and put cut-side down in the pot; do not finely chop.1 piece
- Red wine120 ml
- Extra virgin olive oil60 ml
- Pecorino RomanoFinely grate for the braciole filling.60 g
- Pine nuts30 g
- RaisinsSoak in lukewarm water for 20 minutes and squeeze dry before using.30 g
- Flat-leaf parsleyFinely chop for the braciole and roughly chop for finishing.1 bunch
- EggHard-boil for 15 minutes after the water boils and slice for the braciole filling.1 piece
- GarlicFinely chop 2 cloves for the filling; lightly crush 1 for the ragù.3 cloves
- Fresh basil10 leaves
- SaltFor the ragù and pasta water, each as needed.10 g
- Black pepperFor the braciole filling.2 g
Method
Soak the raisins and hard-boil the egg
- 1 Soak 30g raisins in lukewarm water for 20 minutes.
- 2 MeanwhileAt the same time, put 1 egg in cold water, heat over medium heat and hard-boil for 15 minutes after boiling.
- 3 Once the egg is boiled, cool rapidly in iced water, peel and slice 5mm thick.
Make the braciole
- 1 Finely grate 60g Pecorino Romano.
- 2 Lay out each beef slice; top the inside with 1–2 tablespoons Pecorino, 5–6 pine nuts, 4–5 squeezed raisins, the chopped 2 garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley and 1–2 slices hard-boiled egg.
- 3 Add a pinch of salt and black pepper, roll tightly from the near edge and tie in 3–4 places with kitchen string.
Prepare the sausages and ribs
- 1 Prick the sausages in 5–6 places with a toothpick.
- 2 If large, cut the pork ribs into pieces 4–5cm wide.
Brown the braciole
- 1 Heat 60ml extra virgin olive oil over high heat in a heavy pot of at least 4L; brown the braciole thoroughly on all sides, 2–3 minutes per side and 10–12 minutes total.
- 2 Good browning develops the savour.
- 3 Remove once browned.
Brown the ribs and sausages
- 1 In the same pot, brown the ribs over high heat on all sides, 2–3 minutes per side.
- 2 Remove once browned.
- 3 Brown the sausages in the same way and remove.
Deglaze with red wine
- 1 Reduce to medium heat, add 1 crushed garlic clove and cook for 30 seconds.
- 2 Pour in 120ml red wine all at once and scrape the base with a wooden spoon while cooking off the alcohol for 2–3 minutes.
- 3 The browned deposits are concentrated flavour; dissolve every bit.
Add passata and onion
- 1 Add 1500ml passata.
- 2 Halve the onion lengthways and place cut-side down in the centre of the pot; do not chop, following Neapolitan tradition.
- 3 Add 1 teaspoon salt and bring to the boil over medium heat.
Return the meat and lower the heat
- 1 Return all the braciole, ribs and sausages.
- 2 Once boiling, reduce to the lowest heat.
Ready when
Maintain pippiare: only the faintest little bubbles breaking the surface.
Hold the lid 2–3cm ajar with a wooden spoon.
Slowly simmer the ragù
- 1 Maintain this state for at least 4 hours, ideally 5.
Ready when
Proceed when the sauce turns deep brown-red and the meat pulls apart when grasped with chopsticks.
Caution
Stir the base with a wooden spoon every 30–40 minutes to prevent scorching.
Remove the meat and finish the sauce
- 1 Transfer all the braciole, ribs and sausages to a separate serving dish for the secondo.
- 2 Tear in 10 basil leaves and simmer uncovered for another 10 minutes.
- 3 Adjust the salt.
Cook the rigatoni
- 1 Meanwhile(While the ragù simmers) start boiling a large pot of water with 10g salt per 1L.
- 2 Cook the rigatoni for 1 minute less than the package time.
- 3 Reserve 100ml cooking water.
Coat the rigatoni with ragù
- 1 Lift out the al dente rigatoni and transfer to the ragù pot.
- 2 Toss over medium-high heat for 1–2 minutes and plate when the sauce thoroughly coats the pasta.
- 3 Finish with torn parsley.
About this dish
Naples has its Sunday ragù. Ingredients are prepared on Saturday night, the pot goes on around 8 on Sunday morning and lunch is ready between 12 and 13: this is the rhythm of a Neapolitan family Sunday.
The key word is pippiare, Neapolitan for the state in which tiny bubbles barely break the surface. It is not simply high or low heat, but movement so slight that you must peer into the pot to notice it. Maintaining this for 4–5 hours dissolves the collagen and savour of braciole, ribs and sausages into passata, producing incomparable depth.
One pot yields two dishes: sauce-coated rigatoni as primo, then the braised meats on another plate as secondo. This is the structure of Sunday lunch in Naples. It is distinct from Bologna’s ragù and contains neither carrot nor celery.
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